The canal lateral - heading North

It is quite strange retracing our steps up the Canal du Centre..we were planning to head up towards Toul, however while we moored in Paray we were told that there had been a major breach in the Canal ahead. Due to the unusually prolonged rainfalls of the past few months many rivers were in flood.  The canals have many safeguards against overflow, including strategically placed sluice gates in most biefs [a bief is the length of a canal between locks]. These sluice gates are designed to let excess water out off the canals, however in this case the excess water from an over flowing river forced the gates inwards . Resulting in the inevitable, what goes in, lets whats in out so to speak.

The breech was just near the Montchanin quay, as you can see in the photos it was huge.  Early reports said that it would take about a week to repair. So we decided to head up to Genelard a favourite Port, from here we could drive Cordelia down to Lyon to catch her plane back to the UK. It also meant that we were only 3 biefs away from the breach.  Had a great day in Lyon, even found a small store selling essential Australian products...yah for Vegemite!  On our return to Genelard ...we were told that the repairs would take at least a month in Montchanin.

With the Canal ahead blocked the Port quickly filled with boats and barges with no where to go...to make matters worse we were also getting reports saying that many of the rivers to the north of us were in full spate and not expected to return to normal levels for  at least a month.

As we were late in leaving the Port, due to my pesky arm [all good now, thanks for asking, remind me to show you the scar sometime] we reconsidered our plans for the season. [those familiar with the canal system know will say..what about the Nivernais....you guessed it, a breach there has limited the access to barges under 4 metres wide for the rest of the season....what a year!

Our original plans was going to be to travel a full circle, roughly 1100 kilometres, with the knowledge that our only way back was via the Canel du Loing which was shutting late in August , so on to plan C...a gentle meander up the Canals Lateral & Briare etc to a favourite place...Montargis. So we relaxed, put ourselves in 'gently does it mode' and turned around and headed back towards Paray.  Needless to say it it had still not stopped raining, in all it seemed to fall non stop for 6 months.

 Off we went, stopping in Pierrefitte-sur-Loire....bugger, because of the rain the cherry trees should have been laden with fruit, but no still just tiny, teeny cherries.  Then onto Diou, a tiny town with a delightful mooring. Andrew caught the train back to Paray to collect the car. We then headed to Beaulon, this is always a popular Port, due to a combination of free electricity and water and those thrifty bargees the Dutch, who often stay here for months on end. We have had to pass by several times but our luck seemed to have turned....plenty of space for us, and over the next few days we enjoyed the company of several other barges including Moondance and Celine  and a couple of fellow Aussies for a few days. Then on to St Leger De Vignes at Decize....once again this usually crowded Port had room for us, finally  the weather had changed and was now starting to get very warm, with only an occasional shower.  We stayed here for nearly a week, attending several huge Vide-Greniers in the surrounding areas. [Andrew tends to catch trains and taxis back to previous Ports to bring our car forward, this gives us the chance to get to know an area in depth.] Visiting these Vide Greniers take us to many tiny towns that are usually bypassed by most visitors to France.

Gary and Wendy are planning to join us at the end of June, and we thought it would be nice to pick them up at Menetreol, which is near the lovely wine town of Sancerre.  So we organised our timing so that we would arrive a few days before them.

So after a week or so at St Leger, we headed North again, making our first stop at Fleury.  This is a little rural port with a little cafe right on the quay.  We left St Leger early and arrived just on 12 - lunch time.  So we moored up the boat and a few minutes later were sitting on the quay, at a lovely table overlooking the port.  We had the set lunch for 12 Euros. This turned out to be the biggest lunch ever. The Charcuterie plate was massive, followed by a huge main with a massive bowl of chips, Cheese, and then dessert - with of course the mandatory pichet of Rose!  We were so full we slept the rest of the day away, couldn't even face dinner or breakfast! In fact it was days before we could face a full meal.

The cafe on the quay at Fleury

Next morning we set off early and made our way to Le Guertin, this is a lovely mooring near the big double lock and a very pretty village. As is always the case, every barge enetering the double lock pulls a crowd...the systems means that you cross an aquaduct over the Loire, then do a double descend...it is a favourite spot for locals and tourists to see just how we bargees cope! 

Next day it was Cours le Barre for a couple of days, another very pretty port with a small village.By this time we had began to notice the lack of barges...there were the odd days when a few cruisers and hire boats passed but were are all the other barges?

As we planned to pick up Gary and Wendy in Menetreol, we decided to get there as early as possible, as it can sometimes be very crowded and difficult to find a spot.  So we overnighted at Herry, and left early the next day arriving at Menetreol around lunchtime to find there was only one other boat there,  So we had a lovely mooring on the quay.  Then I got a lift to the local railway station and brought the car up from Decize.

As Gary and Wendy have been travelling for about 6 weeks we thought they would be pretty tired. So we decided to take things easy while they were with us.  As they arrived on Saturday, Vide Greniers were an obvious choice for the Sunday!

Well who said travelling wasn't tiring!

After the Vide Greniers we popped over to Le Guertin, and then onto the very pretty village of Apremont - a three flower rated village.

Monday we visited the lovely wine town of Sancerre, visited the wine museum, wandered the town and had a lovely lunch in the square.

Then off to the lovely quiet port of Lere.  This is next to the Silo, when the harvest comes in it is very busy with tractors bringing grain.  Fortunately the rainy weather earlier in the year had delayed the harvest- so peace prevailed. Our new skippers proved very adept at steering!

We did an outing on Wednesday to the very pretty town of Auxerre.  We had a wander round and after lunch we headed home.

On the way back we drove past the wonderful charity shop - Emmaus.  Wendy had admired Laurels Fois Gras tray, and managed to find a lovely silver one with matching toast rack - Australia won't know what hit it!

Thursday we had a quiet day, with a visit to a local market, and then a supermarket to restock. In the afternoon Gary and Wendy explored the village and walked through the fields where Wendy had an encounter with a bull - I shall say no more!  A relaxing afternoon then drinks and nibbles on deck before dinner!

After much packing and weighing we headed off to Briare for a wander round and light lunch before bidding them a fond farewell. It was lovely having them aboard.

After a few more days at Lere, and some domestic chores we moved onto Beaulieu.As it is Bastille Day this weekend we have decided to stay here as many Ports are closed for fireworks and festivities....we will attend Beaulieus celebrations tomorrow night.

As Beauleau is a very small village, on Bastille day we went to Chatillon Sur Loire, for their much bigger fireworks display.